Monument to a Glorious Empire
Cambodia's Angkor Wat may be the largest and greatest of the monuments to the ancient Khmer, but Thailand, too, possesses a wealth of temple ruins that both attest to the architectural genius of the Khmer and are also readily accessible.
With its capital at Angkor in Cambodia, the Khmer civilisation flourished from AD 802 to 1431, when Angkor was abandoned after being defeated by the Thais. At the height of its power, from the 11th century to the early 13th century, the Khmer Empire extended well beyond the borders of present-day Cambodia and included large areas of what is now Thailand.
Although our knowledge of Khmer history beyond Angkor is still incomplete, there is suffi cient evidence to suggest the considerable importance of the territory today encompassed by Thai borders. It is estimated, for example, that more than 300 stone temples were erected in the Mun River valley alone, where the main temple, Phimai, was linked to Angkor by a 225-km. "Royal Way", which was punctuated by ornately decorated rest stations.
While many of the ruins seen today are of comparatively late construction dating mainly from the 11th and 12th centuries- it is known that the Khmer Empire began extending into northeastern Thailand soon after its founding. A stone inscription dated 886, found near the Thai provincial centre of Ubon Ratchathani, mentions the Angkorian King Indravarman I, whose influence in the region can be traced today in the ruins of Prasat Hin Phanom Wan, in Nakhon Ratchasima, which echoes the architectural style of Preah Koh built by Indravarman near Angkor.
Early in the 11th century, the Khmer greatly extended the borders of their empire, exerting authority in the Chao Phraya River basin and creating Lawo (the present-day Thai town of Lop Buri) as a provincial capital. In the following century, the Khmer pushed the limits of the empire to their furthest extremities with a series of military campaigns that included drives against the Mon, the then dominant culture. For the dedicated history buff, several smaller Khmer sites are found in other northeastern provinces, especially Surin. Less imposing than the regionûs most famous monuments, these ruins are worth visiting to get a fuller appreciation of the extent of the ancient Khmer empire. Touring these smaller locations in the Northeast is easiest by car.
Elsewhere in the Kingdom, Lop Buri, Phetchaburi and Kanchanaburi have small, less well preserved Khmer ruins. Located, respectively, 153 km. north of Bangkok, 123 km. south and 128 km. west, these three destinations can be visited on excursions by road from the capital.
At the height of its power, from the 11th century to the early 13th century, the Khmer Empire extended well beyond the borders of present-day Cambodia and included large areas of what is now Thailand.
Nakhon Ratchasima
One of the most famous Khmer sites in Thailand, Prasat Hin Phimai, and a smaller but charming temple ruin, Prasat Hin Phanom Wan, are located just north of Nakhon Ratchasima. Both can be comfortably visited on a day excursion from the city by either car or bus.
Prasat Hin Phanom Wan
Reached by turning right off Highway 2 some 15 km. north of Nakhon Ratchasima, Prasat Hin Phanom Wan is a comparatively small Khmer temple though well worth visiting.
The attractive 1,000-year-old sanctuary faces a modern monastic building but otherwise stands in an isolated walled compound. Recently restored, the main building is in good condition and comprises a vaulted chamber leading to a tower with a rectangular based. Echoing the architectural style of the late 9th-century temple of Preah Koh near Angkor, Prasat Hin Phanom Wan displays characteristic Khmer architectural devices, such as false and true windows, while over the north entrance to the sanctuary tower a fine carved lintel remains intact.
Atypically, the temple is still in use and several Buddha images, enshrined long after construction, are found inside the chamber. The sight of them, decorated with gold leaf offerings, along with the sweet smell of incense, gives a sense of religious awe.
Prasat Hin Phimai
One of the greatest Khmer sites in Thailand, Prasat Hin Phimai slightly predates Angkor Wat and may have served as a model for the famous temple in Cambodia. It is located about 30 km. further north along Highway 2 from Prasat Hin Phanom Wan and then a further 12 kms. off to the right.
Meticulously restored and set in a well-kept historical park, Prasat Hin Phimai was in ancient times connected to Angkor by road, the "Royal Way", and acted as an important administrative hub. Such status is refl ected in the impressive ruins seen today.
Dating from the end of the 11th century, the original settlement of Phimai occupied an artificial island on the Mun River and a number of remains are scattered around the present town. The principal sanctuary tower, however, stands within its own imposing boundary walls with four entrance pavilions. The 28-metre-high tower itself and its accompanying gopuras are finely proportioned and richly decorated with sandstone carvings of Hindu subjects.
Among other impressive remains are the prangs of flanking sanctuaries in the inner courtyard by the southern gateway, and four corner ceremonial ponds in the outer courtyard. On the left as you cross the Mun River to enter the town of Phimai, the National Museum houses a splendid collection of carved lintels from Phimai and other Khmer sites in the Northeast.
