Cruising the Majestic Waterways
Rivers and canals (khlong) are synonymous with Thai existence. An abundant source and sustainer of life, Thailand's riverine world is a network offl owing arteries that nurture and support local communities. These vital waterways not only provide our basic needs but also serve as important transportation routes, conveniently linking all corners of the Kingdom.
An integral part of daily life, our fl owing tributaries are used for leisure and commerce alike. They are the play-ground for frolicking children, peaceful reststops for the elderly perching on their waterfront pavilions, or enterprising and colourful fl oating markets that paddle along selling fresh produce from local farms.
Water is a reverent symbol in Thai culture, it signifi es both life force and purity. Throughout the year there are unique and joyous celebrations honouring and expressing gratitude for the country's plentiful waterways. At Songkran, the traditional Thai New Year, lustral water is poured over golden Buddha images and the young gently splash water upon their elders in respect. On the November full moon, people gather at rivers and lakes to fl oat lotus-shaped banana leaf vessels, called "Krathongs", to pay homage to the Goddess of Water. Besides annual festivities, the spectacular Royal Barge Procession with its ornamental fl otilla led by His Majesty, is the most elaborate example of deep attachment to the rivers.
Early encounters of such majestic riverine craft met Western diplomats when they fi rst sailed into the ancient Thai capital of Ayutthaya. The impressive sight of a thriving city island encircled by canals alive with raft houses and waterborne communities, led foreigners to affectionately dub the kingdom "Venice of the East".
The waterway cruises detailed in this guide are only a small example of the diverse and amazing routes that meander the length and breadth of Thailand. Wherever your port of call, you are sure to encounter historic riverside architecture and fabulous scenes of natural beauty that create unique cultural identities specifi c to each locale. Set sail with us on a voyage of fascinating discovery.
Bangkok Chao Phraya River
The Chao Phraya, the great river of the Kingdom of Siam, has forged the abundance of the land and sustained riverine communities of the Central Plains, bringing forth three royal capitals, Ayutthaya, Thon Buri, and Rattanakosin.
Viewing the Grand Palace and Wang Lang
Rattanakosin Island on the left bank of the Chao Phraya River is famous for the national heritage of its fine arts and architecture. The tour starts from Chang Pier, passing Na Phra Lan Road to the Grand Palace, the sanctuary of elaborate royal structures, including the royal temple, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, where the most significant Buddha image, carved from a huge piece of jade is enshrined, and the murals depicting the Ramayana are featured on the gallery.
A detour can be made via Na Phra That Road, with a pleasant stroll to view the European-style shop-houses around Chang Pier and Na Phra Lan Road, followed by a visit to the Art Gallery of Silpakom University and the Silpa Bhirasri Memorial National Museum.
One can then proceed to the Phra Chan Pier and take a shuttle boat to cross the river to the Wang Lang - Phran Nok Pier, located in Wang Lang Lane, where food, clothes, and commodities are offered at low prices. Lying within walking distance is Wat Rakhang Khositaram, where the over 200-yearold triplex scripture hall and lacquered and gilded scripture cabinet are on view. Crossing back, a walk past Thammasat University takes one to the National Museum of Bangkok, where national treasures are displayed in the various royal halls, formerly the royal residence of the viceroy.
From the National Museum, take a further walk past the National Theatre, the Tourism Division of the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration, to Phra Athit Pier.
From Phra Athit Pier to Bang Lamphu
In the past, the riverside area on Phra Athit Road was the site for palaces of princes in the Fourth Reign. Such structures remain and can be observed, including the Maliwan Mansion, now the regional head office of the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization. The structure was designed by an Italian architect, and completed in 1917.
Also of interest is Chao Phraya Mansion, formerly the palace of Prince Sathit Thamrongsawat, and later occupied by His Highness Prince Khamrop, who headed the Metropolitan Police in the Sixth Reign, as well as Phra Athit Mansion, formerly the residence of Chao Phraya Woraphongphiphat, M.R.Yen Issarasena, a high-ranking official during the Fifth to the Seventh Reigns, and later turned into the Thai German Cultural Institute, which includes the Goethe Institute, but it is now a private firm's office.
The pleasant evening riverside stroll ends at the Santi Chaiprakan Park, established in commemoration of His Majesty the King's auspicious sixth-cycle birthday in 1999, with the Santi Chaiprakan Royal Hall situated on the riverbank. Not far from the royal hall, one finds the last remaining lamphu plant of the area, and a sculpture entitled "Lifestyle of Bang Lamphu", telling the history of the ancient community from the Ayutthaya Period to the Seventh Reign of Bangkok. Also in the area is the Phra Sumen Fort, one of the two remaining forts originally built around Rattanakosin Island.
Touring Chinatown
From Ratchawong Pier, one can take a stroll to view the old Western-style buildings, houses, and shop-houses in the Talat Noi area, and walk along Ratchawong Road, up to the Chinatown area at the edge of Yaowarat Road.
A visit to the first Chinese Buddhist temple in Bangkok, Wat Mangkon Kamalawat, is in line, followed by a wander through small alleys, such as Soi Issaranuphap, the wholesale market for fish and high-quality seafood. There are also fruits, food offerings for Chinese festivals, vegetables from China, seasoning materials, and dried and canned food, also from China.
One can sample tea or coffee at the traditional coffee shops or try Chinese dishes at one of the original restaurants of Yaowarat on Phat Sai Road, and, if time permits, walk further towards Sampheng and Phahurat or Little India, the textile market, where Indian food and spices are also available.
